The Etruscan Necropolis of San Giuliano is carved into the reddish rocks of the Marturanum Park, a protected natural area in the municipality of Barbarano Romano, on the road between Rome and Viterbo, in the heart of Southern Etruria. The Marturanum Park is an oasis furrowed by the flow of rivers over the volcanic rock, which over time have cut into the surface, modelling the landscape with its gentle hilly forms and making it unexpectedly rugged, with the deep vertical cuts of its gorges that welcome and protect a remarkably rich biodiversity of flora and fauna. What appears before our eyes is the result of a long interaction between man and nature, which in this evocative place dates to the distant Palaeolithic period, when groups of nomads moved here in search of food, and, with the passage of time and the increasing skills acquired, began to live in a more stable manner, giving rise to settlements of huts and small permanent communities. All these groups have left evidence in the form of artefacts found in the Park area, which show how they evolved to create more complex social systems spread throughout the territory, devoting themselves to agricultural and craft activities using increasingly refined technologies, and generating societies with a hierarchical structure separating the aristocratic classes from the lower classes, right up to the dawn of Etruscan civilisation, which is the one we can admire along a route that takes us on a journey through time going back thousands of years. Thanks to the funerary architecture, from the most ancient to the most recent forms, that one encounters descending towards the gullies, as in a book carved on the rock, it is possible to reconstruct the history of Etruscan funerary practices from the Orientalising period to the Hellenistic period, thereby also discovering the changes and influences that the cult of the dead underwent over time, the social spheres to which they were addressed and the changes that society underwent. The remains on the San Giuliano hilltop, on the other hand, show the phases of settlement from the Etruscan period to the Middle Ages.
TUMULO DELLA CUCCUMELLA
The “Tomba della Cuccumella” (Tomb of Cuccumella) is an imposing circular tumulus (a sort of mound), the most important monument on the Caiolo plateau. Its name is said to derive from the Latin word “cucuma” indicating the traditional soup pot (paiolo), probably named in this way by the farmers of this area because of the shape of the mound. It dates from the second half of the 7th century and clearly represents the expression of a funerary cult based on the idea of earthly survival beyond death. The deceased would continue to live with his body as well as his soul, which is why it was necessary to take with him everything that had accompanied him in life: weapons, ornaments, jewellery, pottery, food and even his home, which inspired the funerary architecture. The Tomb of Cuccumella is constructed with regular blocks of tufa, in contrast to the model common in Cerveteri where the outer cone is formed by the earth excavated in order to create the underground chambers. It encloses an entrance and two consecutive chambers on an axis, which housed the deceased and their funerary possessions. These items, given the frequent maritime trade that characterized this period - especially with the Greeks, undoubtedly included many materials imported from the East or locally produced imitations. This is why it is called the “Orientalizing Age”. All that remains of the funerary objects from the Tomb of Cuccumella is an interesting olla (ceramic pot) with depictions of a procession of fantastic animals.
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TOMBA DEI LETTI
The “Tomba dei Letti” (Tomb of the Beds) takes its name from a feature that distinguishes it from the others: the presence of two small beds next to the two main beds. The probable testimony to a tragedy that involved all the members of the family, even the youngest, who were laid down next to their parents, to face their greatest journey yet. The tomb is an admirable example of a 'chamber tomb', excavated and carved into the rock (red tuff with black scoria). A long dromos, accessible from a staircase, leads to two consecutive chambers: one for the placement of the larger funerary articles and the other to accommodate the deceased. The chambers are rich in architectural decorations that are still clearly visible and represent the beams present in the dwellings, testifying to the Etruscan belief in a life beyond death in which the deceased would need everything that had accompanied them in their earthly life: their home, furnishings, food, weapons and jewellery.
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TOMBA DEL CERVO
The “Tomba del Cervo” (Tomb of the Deer) is a large semi-dado, a very common type of tomb, with a cubic shape excavated on three sides in the rock, with a very high facade on which a false door is carved, while the real access to the underground burial chamber is at the end of a dromos, a long corridor. It is dated to the Hellenistic period, between the end of the 4th and the beginning of the 3rd century B.C., a phase in which the tombs in the peripheral centres regained a new splendour. The funerary architecture of this period is the expression of a changed relationship with death, experienced in a more anguished way partly as a result of the period being plagued by the attacks of the Romans, and in which the duality between the world of the living and the world of the dead is more clearly perceived; the concept of the earthly survival of souls is no longer there, replaced by that of the existence of a kingdom of the dead. Inside the very large chamber there are no typical funerary beds because a couple of centuries ago they were replaced by sarcophagi in order to accommodate a much larger number of deceased members of the same family. Some sarcophagi were found during excavations and can be admired in the Archaeological Museum of Barbarano. To the left of the tomb is a flight of steps carved into the rock leading to the upper terrace on which ceremonies, sacrifices and funeral rites were performed in favour of the souls of the dead who resided in the realm of the dead. On the wall of the staircase is a bas-relief depicting two animals facing each other. Two theories exist as to how the scene should be interpreted: a wolf attacking a deer on its nose, in which the latter represents Etruria and the wolf represents Rome, in a metaphor for Rome's attack on Etruscan territories at that time; or a hunting scene with a dog blocking a deer, to celebrate the typical activity of the aristocratic class, and to immortalise its value on the family tomb.
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TOMBA DELLA REGINA
The “Tomba della Regina” (Tomb of the Queen) is a grandiose three-sided semi-dado carved into the rock, 14m wide and 10m high, dating from the 5th century BC. Its name probably derives from the majesty of its size. This type of tomb is recurrent along the rocky wall facing the plateau of San Giuliano on which the ancient settlement stood, and recalls the expression of new changes in Etruscan society: new social classes emerge and fill the gap that once existed between aristocrats and the humble population. Indeed, funerary architecture features recurring models that are much more modest than the ostentatious splendour of the nobility of previous periods. The Tomb of the Queen has survived in excellent condition, its facade still showing well-preserved carved decorations, with a beautiful moulding at the top and two imposing doors almost 5m high with a carved Doric frame. Inside there are twin burial chambers, each with four beds, benches for funerary offerings and loculi (niches) for interments. Outside there is a side staircase leading to the upper terrace on which the funerary stones were placed: engraved stone slabs representing the deceased, a kind of tombstone, which then became an object of worship. Sacred rites and sacrifices in favour of the deceased were also performed here by priests who prepared for their entrance into the afterlife by interceding with the gods.
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TUMULO CIMA
In the Chiusa Cima area is the main necropolis, one of the largest in existence, comprising hundreds of tombs spanning a very wide period of time, from the 8th to the 3rd century BC. They are mainly dug into the tufa walls, on several levels, or grouped around small burial squares. Undoubtedly, the most impressive monument is the Cima Tomb, discovered in 1921 and named after the locality. It is a large tumulus over 25m in diameter with seven tombs from different periods of the Orientalizing Age, modelled on the tombs of Cerveteri. The name of the aristocratic family that owned the tomb is unfortunately unknown. The oldest tomb faces northwest, where the Etruscans placed the gods of the Underworld on the ceiling. The main burial chamber, at the back, has four pillars carved directly from the excavation of the rock; the ceiling was rebuilt in concrete in the 1980s following a collapse, but this allowed the recovery of objects and ceramic fragments, which escaped the raiders who had plundered the tomb, and which have allowed us to provide a date of the 7th century BC. Inside the chamber you can see a stone bed carved in imitation of wooden beds, and the back wall must have been painted with two rampant felines. This image is also found painted on a vase from one of the tombs in the same tumulus, probably both decorations being the work of the same painter. Note the detail of the ceilings of the side chamber that represent both the double pitch, which in houses is covered with tiles, and the typical radial pattern of the beams of Etruscan huts.
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TOMBE A PORTICO
The evocative series of so-called "Tombe a Portico” (Portico Tombs) sees a succession of simple rock tombs with a single chamber in a first lower level, with double-pitched roofs and beds with shaped legs, overlooked by an upper level of rooms excavated in the rock with a central column complete with surviving bases, open at the front and therefore completely visible. The question remains whether this is a type found only in this necropolis, with tombs surmounted by a loggia for burial rites, or whether it is in fact a second level of chamber tombs left exposed due to the collapse of the front wall.
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TOMBE A PALAZZINA
At the junction of two paths leading from Caiolo towards the river, one can see a type of tomb dating back to the 4th-5th centuries B.C., called "a Palazzina” (to denote an apartment building) because of the peculiarity of being excavated on a rock wall with conspicuous mouldings, all with the same entrance, dimensions and shape, so much so as to recall an apartment block. Inside, the burial chamber is very simple, with double-pitched ceilings and funeral beds all with the same features.
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